Welcome
for a brief introduction in glass gobo fundamentals ! This page is primarily intended for those not so familiar with using or making their own glass gobos. First, a glance at an example for a projector commonly used in theaters and TV studios: Light from the lamp is passed through a condenser lens set to make the most use of the light available, and to create a parallel beam of light that will pass through the gobos image area. Then the light is focused so that the image will appear at the projection plane. The image should be placed at the image plane so that, for example, a text that is readable at the projection plane is also readable on the gobo seen from the condenser lens side, but upside-down. The temperature inside a profile lamp housing can reach several hundred degrees centigrade so it is required that all materials used to hold the glass gobo can withstand the heat. |
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When
copying a film original onto the light-sensitive glass gobo material from Beacon, it is
recommended to use a good-quality orthocromatic film and a powerful point-shaped
UV-light source (as an HMI-lamp) mounted inside a ventilated box at a distance
of 150 to 250mm from the glass sheet where the film and the glass
gobo material is placed on top of each other. It is recommended that the copying is done so that the aluminum (photosensitive) side finally will be turned towards the lamp. This means that a text that will be readable on the projection plane (see above) should not be readable on the film original placed on the glass sheet before the glass gobo material is placed on top of it (see below). |
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The
glass gobo material should be handled only by its edges before exposure
and development. Preferably, continue avoiding touching the glass or aluminum planes throughout the whole process (right). |
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Only a certain part of the glass gobo area can be used for the image, depending on the projector design. Please make certain what is the maximum image diameter before ordering the film original, which must be in 1:1 scale when contactcopying. Also, remember that the area around the image area must remain opaque (left). | |||||||||||||
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The glass gobo material is available in a range of diameters between 25 and 66 mm, to make it possible to use standard material sizes you can use aluminum adapter plates for other sizes (right). | |||||||||||||
Exposure time for a exposure-box like the one described above equipped with a 700 W HMI lamp may be around two minutes. |
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Procedure: 1: Contact-copy the film original onto the gobo material's photosensitive side (yellowish). 2: Develop the photoresist. You can re-use the developer. 3: Rinse with running water. 4: Etch the pattern into the aluminum layer. Use only a small bowl and enough etcher to get a fluid depth of 5-10 mm. Discard the etcher. 5: Rinse with running water. 6: Strip the remaining photoresist from the gobo material with acetone. 7: Rinse with running water and let dry. 8: If there are pinholes in the aluminum layer you can fill them in with the pencil "paint marker 780" from Edding. 9: If a glue is needed to affix the gobo into a holder, you may use "silicon sealant 732" from Dow Corning. |
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